CreativeReview

Shooting the cover

Our September 2015 Fashion issue features an extraordinary photoshoot by Ryan Hopkinson, Hana Al Sayed and Gemma Fletcher on the influences and process of Hussein Chalayan. Here's how it was done

To accompany our interview with Hussein Chalayan, Ryan Hopkinson, Hana Al Sayed and Gemma Fletcher came up with the idea of creating a series of images that would reflect the way in which Chalayan creates his work. After long discussions with Chalayan and researching his archive, they decided to create four images, each of which would explore a different aspect of Chalayan's work.

Our cover image, for example, reflects the fact that the starting point for Chalayan's A/W 15 collection was a series of abstract paintings. The colours and textures of those paintings then became incorporated into the fabrics used in the clothing.

 

Another key part of that same collection was the use of fringing allied to the mystery evoked by Agatha Christie's Murder on the Orient Express which, Chalayan says, was a key influence on the collection

 

This image refers back to Chalayan's S/S 99 Geotropics collection on which he collaborated with industrial designer Paul Topen to create a composite material of glass fibre and resin that was moulded into spectacular forms

 

And this final set of images was a response to Chalayan's Spring 98 collection featuring surreal glass cocoon headpieces which obscured the models

 

 

The images were created almost entirely in camera using intricate sets by Al Sayed and Hopkinson's lighting skills. This film by Camilla Corr explains the process and the ideas behind the shoot:

 

 

Credits:
Shoot Photographer: Ryan Hopkinson
Shoot Art Director: Gemma Fletcher
Set Designer: Hana Al Sayed
Casting Director: Sarah Bunter
Make up: Holly Silius using Mac Pro
Hair: Shukeel Murtaza
Models: Grace MIng at M+P, Natasha Luwedde at PRM
Retouching: The Forge
Make up assistants: Suzanna Prodromou & Marissa Marsh
Photo Assistants: Mark Griffiths & Ben Reeves

 

Our Hussein Chalayan interview and the photo shoot can be found in the September 2015 issue of CR which also features Paul Weller, Knyttan, Iris van Herpen and Nick Knight. On sale now